The Skippers View of our First Extended Trip

Fri 24 Sept 2010

Essentials for Cruising
*Compatible crew (Annie is great company, even managing to put with Capt Michael Bligh for 3 months).
*Mandatory safety gear.
*Reliable autopilot (longtime helming is a major chore).
*Electric anchor winch preferably able to be used from the cockpit.
*All chain anchor rode, 50m minimum length.
*A spare anchor, preferably 2 spares with rode already connected (chain & rope).
*Jack lines and harnesses for going forward.
*Good refrigeration, not only can the beer and wine be kept cool but fresh food lasts longer.
*A method of charging batteries other than the engine, ie solar panels, wind generator or both.
*Jerry cans for spare fuel.
*Manuals to operate and fix systems.
*Backup GPS.
*Essential spare parts for the engine (in our case a spare gearbox was very useful).
*A lightweight O/B motor for the tender (not a 27 kg beast unless you are very strong).
*Spray dodger and bimini for protection from the elements.
*Charts and pilot guides (NSW, Alan Lucas; Qld, Alan Lucas, Beacon to Beacon, Curtis Coast, 100 Magic Miles).
*Boat licence (mandatory in Queensland for any vessel with greater than a 4 HP motor).
*Holding tank for sewage
*Some form of inside shower.
*Insect screens to keep out mossies and sand flies (itchy bitey scratchy without them).
*Small fan heater for use in marinas when it is really cold.
*Sense of humour for those trying times and a non grumpy skipper, (sorry for being a grump at times Anne).

Extras that would be nice to have
*Davits to raise the dinghy at night or on inshore waters.
*Wheels for the dinghy saves the back when the tide is out (we have them now we are home).
*A wind vane if you can get it to work.
*Chart plotter or laptop with nav program.
*Radar for night sailing.
*I am sure there are a lot more but that is all I can think of for now.

Statistics
Distance to Rosslyn Bay (our furthest point north) as the crow flies 600 nautical miles.
Distance covered by Saaremaa was 1600 nautical miles.

Length of cruise in days 91, of which 50 were in 8 different marinas, 28 were on anchor, 6 at jetties, 5 on moorings and 2 at sea.

Marinas varied in price from $27.50 at Gladstone to $50 per night at Port Macquarie for our 35ft vessel. The average price was $35 per night.

The engine was used for 260 hours of motor sailing and burned 470 L of diesel costing $630.

Lake Macquarie Yacht Club to Croudace Bay Mooring (Final leg of the voyage)

Wed 22 Sept 2010

Up late at 0730, a luxurious  lay in on the expansive V- berth and Mick skipper slept like a log snoring for Australia no doubt, (sorry Belmont residents). Annie crew jumped ship at LMYC to head for home and a comfy sleep but missing the joys of on board life (the sounds, creaks and rocking) was not able to fully attain this desire, (we may have to install a home boating simulator system).

Saaremaa at LMYC all spick and span with 'Mukluk' behind

It was a lovely sunny and calm day and Saaremaa was washed to remove the salt spray from the ocean and cleaned inside. Water from our normally dusty bilge was sponged out and and the bilge dried. The water must be from all the wet stuff coming over the anchor winch and entering through the hausepipe, (sealing with a plastic beg obviously was not effective enough so next time plasticine will be employed as a seal, this hint is from Kerrie & Martin of 'Jannali').

Croudace Bay Saaremaa's Home

Most of the extraneous cruising gear was taken home especially Brutus motor, the fridge emptied, clothes removed and then Saaremaa headed for the mooring in Croudace Bay at 1500. Motoring along with no swell or waves was like being back on a duck pond (and very nice too), the gearbox that seemed to be on the blink was OK and working well. As the bay came in sight Saaremaa's 'bed' (no not the seabed or lake bed) awaited. The mooring was relatively clean after a 3 month absence (a mooring fairy must have cleaned it) and by 1600 all was secure. The anti seagull nets were broken out and Saaremaa was left tucked up in bed (well almost) for a long earned snoooooozzzzzzzzzzz!!

Port Stephens to Lake Macquarie (The Home Run)

Tuesday 21 Sept 2010

Rounding Cape Horn, or maybe Point Stephens Lighthouse

Its flat at 'The Cape' today

Another and the last 0500 rising, for a time, a quick cuppa as the boat is readied and its off at 0605. We dropped the courtesy mooring in Shoal Bay after a slightly rolly but not hummocky night, (for those in need of a hummocky night the Capricorn Coast is the place to be at Hummocky Island), and started motoring. Oh wonderful!! The gearbox starts its old trick of slipping above 1400 rpm until warm. By the time we reached the heads all was well (or at least wellish) as we were able to do 2000+ rpm without the gears slipping.

Saaremaa disturbing the birds

The day started off overcast (sorry no great sunrise picture) and the sea fairly benign with a 1m SE swell and no chop. Wind was very light and with full mainsail we were motor sailing at 5.5 knots. Raelene steered for most of the day. Around noon the sun was shining and the water was glassy with no wind and light swell. No whales were sighted and the welcoming dolphins took a while to turn up but did not stay long. Although Saaremaa did manage to disturb a flock of shearwaters using the ocean as a duck pond.

They are big aren't they??

We sailed through the anchored bulk carriers and only had to concern ourselves with one headed for Newcastle (shades of Gladstone again), but the vessel passed us 0.5 nm to port.

The scenic Moon Islet

Passing the very scenic Moon Islet (at least it looks scenic when home is very close).  The Swansea VMR station was also a welcoming site.

Swansea VMR a welcome sight

Arrival  at Swansea bar occurred at 1300 just after LT 0.45m at 1245 so the current was still running out as Annie steered us up the channel under full main with gearbox still behaving itself, we picked up a mooring and waited for a 1400 bridge.

A nice flat Swansea bar

Green means go through the jaws of ............!!

On our lonesome we held up the traffic but had no time to stop and sell calendars to the motorists (that's besides having no calendars anyway, but its the thought that counts).
The bridge opened to either welcome us in or grab us in a pincer movement. Fortunately the former was the case as we did not want to make the evening news tonight.

We motored up to the Lake Macquarie Yacht Club and there were thousands (tens actually) lining the dock to welcome us home but we could not see the PM in the crowd, such a disappointment Julia!! Kevin was there for Jessica after all. It turns out that the 'thousands' were attending a wake in the marquee BBQ area and not waiting for us after all. Well, well, such disappointment!!!

The jaws close and we are safely in the lake and home.

'Mukluk' a Fisher 32 motorsailer was on the dock in the same position as when we had left 3 months earlier in June. Not a long stayer apparently just a regular.


We unloaded the boat Annie crew jumped ship to sleep at home leaving the skipper to tend to Saaremaa. A lonesome dinner was had in the LMYC bistro and then it was back to tend to the home afloat.

Forster/Tuncurry to Port Stephens

Mon 20 Sept 2010

Bye Forster/Tuncurry

Up at 0530 (a lovely sleep in), anchors away by 0715 and across the flat bar at 0730 ( a bit different to yesterday). The sea was relatively flat and the sky overcast as we headed for Cape Hawke and then on to Seal Rocks with the wind from the SW at 10 knots. Under full sail and motoring we were averaging 5.5 knots.

Passing Broughton Islands

The seas got up a bit, lumpy became the order of the day, so Raelene gave up the ghost and we hand steered in the fresh conditions. Just after we changed course at Seal Rocks the wind veered to the SE to aid our passage and we were soon scooting along at 6.5 knots headed for Port Stephens Heads on a SW course.

Whales were having a great time breaching and tail flapping about 200m from the boat apart from the young whale who must have been keen on checking us out as it surfaced 30-40m from Saaremaa's aft quarter. Fortunately it did not breach and jump on us.

Welcoming Tomaree & Yacaba Heads

The sunny weather came in and as we barrelled along back into familiar waters we passed through the welcoming Tomaree & Yacaba heads. Logging off with VMR Pt Stephens we picked up a courtesy mooring in Shoal Bay at 1600.

'Cremotime' again

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time for a few sun downers and then Michael prepared the crematorium to burn the steaks for our last BBQ before home. Shoal Bay looks lovely in the sunshine if a bit rocky but nothing like the wonderful Hummocky Island of the Capricorn Coast.

Yet another sunset over Port Stephens Head

Headed home to the lake tomorrow morning means up at the wonderful 0500 again!!

 

Laurieton to Forster

19 Sept 2010

Yesterday morning in Laurieton

After a leisurely rise at 0530 we left the LUSC jetty at 0745. Motoring down the river we waved to the Marine Rescue people and were seen off by several foraging dolphins that had entered the river. The mainsail was raised and we approached the bar to see waves breaking right across the entrance due to the large swell. We did a 360 turn to let it settle a bit and then went for it. A bit of a roller coaster ride but no breaking waves in the 4m swell, unfortunately Michael did not have the camera going this time to record the event, (I was concentrating for a change)!!

Bye, bye pelican

Bye, bye Perpendicular Point

There was little wind and it was on the nose at SSW 10 knots for most of the passage until at 1400 the sea was glassy and the swell had dropped. Very English looking weather, overcast all day but no rain so no pictures taken.

We arrived at Gail McBurnie's favourite port, Forster/Tuncurry, crossing the flat bar on a rising tide at 1550 and were anchored opposite the fish co-op in Tuncurry by 1610. Anne set about a cook up and another gourmet meal was enjoyed aboard Saaremaa.

We were sorry to miss the people from Saaremaa Island who called around twice to visit us in Laurieton. On Saturday we were at the movies and on Sunday we were on the ocean. Please feel free to contact us via the blog if you would like some information regarding our yacht and its name.

Happy 61st To Alan Norwood

Coffs Harbour to Camden Haven (Laurieton)

Wed 15 to Fri 17 Sept 2010

Not so tropical now

The wind and sea conditions  looked good for the trip south to Port Macquarie and after lunch out with Anne's 'old' but younger friend Janet (sins of youth will not be mentioned here) it was decided that we'll be up at 0400 to leave by 0500 and first light on Thursday morning. However Michael's brainwave at midnight after sleeping for 2 hours and then laying awake for a half hour contemplating getting up at 0400 was, why not go now. What a, good idea, but as it turned out not the best.

Seabirds feeding frenzy

The cap says it all

We left the berth, entered the outer harbour and raised the main with 2nd reef already set in the pitch darkness managing to avoid hitting rocks or the anchored yacht then crossed out of the harbour using the lead lights at 0130. The sea was a bit swelly 2-3m from the south with a light SW breeze but by 0400 the wind was building and the swell had increased to over 3m, Saaremaa was taking white water over the bow, Anne was down below laying down to avoid nausea. By 0500 wind was 25-30 knot from the SW and the chop was making the sea quite uncomfortable and we were making 3.5 knots heading for Trial Bay to anchor up and await a favourable bar crossing into the Macleay River. As Anne has said 'whatever does not kill you makes you strong', however Michael was not game to speak these words about the conditions, valuing his manhood.

Not a knackered  sailor

As the sun came up things were looking a bit better but the wind and chop were still knocking the boat around until 0700 when things calmed down, Anne surfaced and we decided to press on to Port Macquarie.

Perpendicular Point

The whales and bird life entertained us as the miles passed when we decided, as it was still only 1300, to bypass Pt Macquarie and head for Camden Haven 12nm south. Crossing a flat bar on a flooding tide just on HT gave a smooth passage as we motored up the river to the Laurieton United Services Club Jetty. With fenders all set for a starboard tie up Michael managed to stuff it up even though Kerrie and Martin from a Victorian Yacht 'Jannali' were there to help tie up. Going around and approaching against the tide made life so much easier with a port side tie up. (This tide business can be so tiresome at times)!! We were all tied up safe and sound by 1600.

LUSC jetty Saaremaa & Jannali

The LUSC jetty is described in Alan Lucas guide 'Cruising the NSW Coast' as rickety but it has since been refurbished and will fit two 45 ft vessels along it. The jetty is a free service to visiting boaties for 5 days with a key to the amenities having a $50 refundable deposit, a definite bargain for any boaties! Pelicans hang around the pontoon jetty near the fish cleaning table hoping to catch the odd mouthful.

Los Saaremaates at North Brother

Provisioning is well catered for with the shopping district a short walk away. Meals at the club are pretty good and reasonably priced, the town itself has a great location and the people are very friendly. A highly recommended port of call. BY 1930 Anne had already gone to bed and Michael clocked off at 2030, 2 knackered sailors, (Anne has the hat to prove it)!

Anne & Alan Willows

On Friday morning we walked up to town to get some bread and Anne's SMH calling in at the Historical Society Museum where the gentleman overseeing the place invited us to come along in his car to the top of North Brother for the views. His name is Alan Willows and he is a retired horticulturist with an encyclopedic knowledge of plants. He has lived in the area since the early 1950's and generously showed us around and invited us back to his home where he has more species of orchids growing around the wilderness garden, of which he knew all the names, than we have seen before.

Camden Haven entrance

Martin & Kerrie on 'Jannali'

Martin & Kerrie from 'Jannali' ,a Victorian yacht, were taken up to North Brother by another local who was delivery skipper and into his latter years. Laurieton is a very friendly and scenic place with a surprising number of eateries for a relatively small town.




On Saturday we went to the local cinema that is showing 'The Girl Who Played With Fire' an adaptation of Stieg Larsson's book. It's unusual to see first run movies in little country towns especially when it is not released nationally until 23Sept. The cinema is a real gem, a sort of mini State Theatre, that has an extremely varied program.

Wiggly Pig

The 'Wiggly Tail Butchery' and the 'Pied Piper' children's clothing store are a couple of interestingly named shops in town!!

The local Dragon boat crew

Dragon boat racing is a popular sport and we saw the crew of the local boat out for a regular morning paddle. the crew appeared to be varied in age from 30's to 60's hence there is some hope for Michael yet.

Only 102nm to Swansea and its off to Foster/Tuncurry in the morning on a fairly flat sea with light winds. Soon be home but a pity about the bridge, maybe we are not wanted back in the lake?? Oh well!

Laurieton Sunrise

Runaway Bay (Gold Coast) to Coffs Harbour

Sat 11 to Tues 14 Sept 2010

Runaway Bay sunrise

Saaremaa resting at sunrise

Firing up the crematorium

The Gold Coast is 316nm south of Rosslyn Bay and 322 nm north of Swansea channel according to the GPS and as the crow flies, hence we are halfway home more or less.

The weekend was spent around Runaway Bay with a little side trip by foot up to Paradise Point for coffee on Saturday morning. Life in Paradise was just too hard to take, in the sunshine, along the coffee bar strip and just chilling out watching the passing parade!! Michael fired up the crematorium and burned snake, oops steak that was enjoyed aboard. Not a lot was happening aboard Saaremaa other than checking the weather, entering the way points in the backup GPS and planning for maybe Byron Bay, Yamba or, perish the thought, overnight to Coffs.

The one compensation for sailing overnight is you do not have to get up at 0500 for an early start

Annie celebrates another safe arrival

Bye, bye gold coast

Coffs Harbour was the chosen destination after much forethought and the fact that there is no bar. The BoM forecast was not the most encouraging with up to 30 knot winds and 3m seas predicted around dawn Tuesday in Byron waters. However the BoM wind map, Willy Weather, Buoy Weather and Tide Forecast all gave encouraging inshore conditions.

Cape Byron at dusk

Annie before the long night

We left Runaway Bay at 0900 logged on with the Seaway Tower crossed the bar at 0945 heading south towards home.  A flat bar and sea with a light NE wind had us making 6 kts even with 2 reefs in the mainsail (caution rules aboard Saaremaa) and the engine on of course. It has been said that Saaremaa means motorsailer and after this trip it may well be the case. Our speed climbed to 7 then 8+ knots (maxing at 8.7 kts for a time) until 1500 as the fortuitous current pushed us on. Our ETA of 1600 Tuesday at Coffs was a bit conservative seeing as we were all tied up and done by 0950 (we work on averaging 5 kts which is 30 hours by our reckoning as in when we went north in July). The motor was on for the entire 25 hour trip and we occasionally had the genoa joining in the fun but wind and seas were light the whole way.

Michael before the long night

Michael After the long night

We saw a lot of whales blowing, breaching, tail and arm (maybe flipper) flapping and waving. At one time Saaremaa had to slow to allow a couple of whales to cross our bow (right of whale, 50 ton beats our 7 ton). A few dolphins toyed with us during the night but did not stay long. At 0300 a big ship was coming straight for us, at 8nm distance it looked like an island on the radar until after shifting 20 degrees to starboard and a little later the lights could be clearly distinguished. It did not take long before the ship passed us by to port as it must have been making 20+ knots.

South Solitary Island with a rock arch and lighthouse

Our settling on 2 hour watches and the much warmer and calmer conditions meant that Raelene could steer full time, Benny Boy could rest on his back perch and Tina Turtle hung around the cabin. We were less buggered upon arrival due to the calm conditions and the faster time. When South Solitary lighthouse appeared with its light flashing just before dawn we knew that Coffs was not far off.

Giving Saaremaa a 50L tot of diesel

Saaremaa was a bit thirsty after the long motor sail and had used 50L of fuel so she was given a good drink.

A strange rig on this aluminium yacht

There is an interesting looking aluminium  ketch in the harbour with the strangest looking rig we have seen on a sailing vessel and we can't quite work out how the mainsail goes up.

An ocean sunrise

It is only 182 nm to Swansea so we are not too far from home ( a couple of nights on the ocean and we are there)! On Thursday the plan is to head out early for Port Macquarie about 70 nm south so its back to the old up early, early again but this time leaving at 0500.

Mooloolaba to Gold Coast

Thurs 9 to Fri 10 Sept 2010

Thursday morning up at 0500 again? No just kidding instead a lay in until 0700, more luxury. Anne went to get her SMH paper and then had a haircut while the worker skipper got the boat ready for sea. (Michael is available to cut hair at any time just call him up as long as its a no.4 you are after). Sadly Anne does not think a no.4 is quite her style but Michael thinks it may look good, if not it would at least save some money. Anyway moving right along.

A whale spout if you look closely!

The forecast was good for a trip outside Moreton Island overnight and direct to the Gold coast seaway with 15-20 and then 20-25 knot NE winds. We worked on 5 kts to arrive at the Seaway entrance at 0600 Friday morning. The forecast started off well and with 2 reefs in the main we left at 1230 Thursday with Michael managing to leave the berth without major calamity. Hauling up the mainsail, down the channel we passed a small trimaran stuck against a nav' beacon but were past him before we could do anything and with a motor boat nearby thought he would be OK (hope so or Michael's a ratbag).

On entering the bay the waves were a bit bumpy (wind against tide) but no breakers and we headed out happy to have the 2nd reef in because it was 20kts not 15. Setting course for the top of Moreton Island we unfurled some genoa and were broad reaching at 6-7 knots just what we were not expecting as we needed 5kts to reach the Seaway at 0600. When you get a great sail go with it we believe as they are few and far between. This was the place we had our first decent sail on the way north.

More whale stuff with good eyesight and a magnifying glass.

Whales were seen near a whale watch boat and in our photos you can just make out the blows (with a magnifying glass). The video shows it a lot better and we will bore people with this later. As the sea built and the wind went to 25+ knots with a strong wind warning issued for 30+kts & 3m seas we chickened out on the outside passage and headed down the NE Channel to Peel Island in the dark. Averaging 7 knots with the wind and tide plus utilising the way points from 'Beacon to Beacon' we arrived at our destination and anchored in Horseshoe Bay at 2230 somewhat stuffed. After a chicken sandwich and glass of turps it was sleep time.

Sunrise over Moreton Island at Horshoe Bay

Horseshoe Bay behind us and the ketch from the sunrise photo

Friday at 0500 the alarm went off (false alarm Michael read the tides!), a sleep in until 0630 with another lovely sunrise. There were 10 boats in the anchorage when we left at 0800 sailing with the genoa up at 6-7 knots across the Lake Macquarie like bit of Moreton Bay. Annie was steering in her new gloves and relishing the fresh conditions as we headed for Canaipa Passage with the tide in our favour.

Helming Annie in her new gloves.

RQYS annex Canaipa Point

Passing the RQYS annex at Canaipa Point we trundled on towards Runaway Bay on the flood tide at 6kts. Passing a delightful steel boat that could be a Michael Project (I don't think so!!)

Not a project for Michael

We continued on to what may be called millionaires row on Russel Island with big jetties and big houses. 'Rhum Punch' looked comfy on her mooring as we passed by.

'Rhum Punch' we will have some of that!

The tide is quite high here.

A drowned forest along the passage.

This offending red beacon should be to our starboard side Michael!! Oops!

Michael nearly misses the port beacon being busy photographing the fishing camp while steering, depth 1.6m until back in the channel.

Safely around both red beacons with no mishaps. Phew!!!

Jumpinpin is the change over point for the tides and we got down to 5.3 kts until picking up the ebb tide flowing south and then back up to 6+ kts.

Another near calamity for the eagles nest shot. Phew again!!!

The Queensland Maritime people are wildlife friendly as can be seen by the eagle nest being allowed to stay while another red beacon was installed (Michael nearly runs aground taking this picture, depth 1.5m).

At 1300 we arrived at Runaway Bay, it was raining after being overcast for most of the day, and we were given our former berth of A15 plus as valued customers (we think) the discount price of $30/night. After a shower and tying up the boat early dinner and then zonk ZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.